Meathead by Rux Martin
Author:Rux Martin
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Cooking
ISBN: 9780544018501
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Published: 2016-05-23T16:00:00+00:00
In 1955 Ernest Morgado cooked up a big batch of chicken for a farmer’s group. It had been marinated in his version of the classic Japanese teriyaki sauce and painted with the sauce on the grill. It was such a hit that he built a business around it.
Rather than turn scores of chicken pieces one by one when he was catering an event, he sandwiched the meat between two mesh grates and, with the help of an assistant, flipped the whole contraption. When it was time to turn, he would shout “Huli!”—Hawaiian for “turn”—to his assistant, who would shout “Huli!” back, grab the handles on the other side of the grates, and turn the chicken over.
In 1986 Morgado started bottling the gingery soy-based sauce, then trademarked the name, and aggressively began protecting his brand by threatening lawsuits against other cooks using the name. But the flavor had momentum and, despite his best efforts, the name became generic. Now there are scores of huli-huli stands under shade trees, in parking lots, and at fund-raisers. Drive around Oahu—if you see smoke rising and smell something sweet, it is likely huli-huli chicken. It is said that the locals keep napkins in their glove compartment just in case.
Huli-huli sauce was originally a teriyaki sauce, which in Japan is a simple blend of soy sauce, mirin (a sweet rice wine), and a little sugar reduced to a glaze. But nowadays there are scores of variations on the theme. I use it whenever a recipe calls for teriyaki sauce. (See page 299 for my Hawaiian Huli-Huli Teriyaki Chicken recipe.)
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